IAN OSTEYEE

Primary Residence: Keene, N.Y.

How did you start? My English teacher was a climber, and ran a small school outing club. Back in the early eighties, in the Adirondacks, there weren’t many regular local climbers. When I took a real interest, he helped me along and introduced me to other area climbers. I became the unwitting belay slave for several experienced climbers and spent my younger years climbing above my head and scared.

What kind of climbing do you prefer? I like to climb trad mixed climbs and enjoy thin ice that appears in odd places.

What was my most memorable climbing experience? I don’t have one, there are several that keep me walking around with a smile.

I began on the scrappy riverside limestone of central Missouri, then moved to Tucson Arizona in 1996

where I travelled the west living the climbing life and ticking classics. Eventually I started climbing virgin
routes. This lead to hundreds of sport, trad and mixed first ascents From Arkansas to Yosemite. Then I
got married, bought a house and had kids. WAIT! There’s more! I then moved on to more exotic routes
in China, Patagonia, Canada, Argentina and Venezuela. My specialty is big days in the mountains, linkups,
and first ascents of runout 5.12 trad that would make even better sport climbs.

Notables:

– FA In Gold Blood, 12+/13a 12 pitches, Acopan Tepui, Venezuela w/ Pat Goodman
– FA Border Country, Yosemite .12c 13 pitches w/Mikey Schaefer
– FA Sistine Reality, Black Canyon 11+, 11 pitches, onsite in a day, no bolts w/Jonny Copp
– FFA of The Phoenix Wall and Mt Dracula, Vampire Spires 5.11, 18 pitches w/Pat Goodman
– FA Supernatural, 12 R/S, Arkansas
– “Triple Header”- 3 summits via their hardest routes in 10 hours at 13,000’ w/Tommy Caldwell
– FA The Wolf and The Medallion, .11, 10 pitches Keketuohai, China
– Three Red Rocks Walls in 10 hours- Rainbow Wall .12, Cloud Tower .12, Crimson Chrysalis .8

• SHORT/LONG TERM GOALS-
– Finish my four year project “DRAWN” Book/film project
– Linkup all my 5.12 trad FAs in Arkansas in a weekend
– Be first to finish half of Fifty Favorites from Mark Kroesse book
– Continue to break one record a year at Horseshoe Hell
– Find first 5.13 trad route in Arkansas and send it- (my home crag)
– Get my kitchen refinished before I am 40

Dawn Glanc, pronounced, “Glance”, was born and raised in Brunswick Ohio. After a few years at Kent State University, Dawn moved to the Black Hills of South Dakota to pursue a degree in Outdoor Education. While at Black Hills State University, Dawn also discovered rock and ice climbing. After graduating in 1998 with a BS in Outdoor Education, Dawn continued to climb and started down the road toward a career in the outdoors. In 2004, Dawn left the hills and went to the North Cascades to become a full time mountain guide. Over the next 8 years she climbed and guided all throughout the western United States and Canada. In 2012, Dawn became a year round resident of Ouray Colorado and now spends her time climbing in the San Juan’s and guiding full time for San Juan Mountain Guides and Chicks Climbing.

Dawn enjoys all types of climbing, however ice and mixed climbing is her specialty. Dawn has followed her passion for climbing and it has taken her all over the world to climb and explore. Dawn has climbed in Canada, Norway, Greece, France, Italy, Montenegro, Sardinia, and Iceland. She has first ascents on waterfall ice lines in Cody Wyoming, and the western fjords of Iceland. Dawn has also competed in the Ouray Ice Festival Competition, The Bozeman Ice Festival competition and the Vail Winter Games. Winning first place in the women’s division multiple times. Dawn is also an American Mountain Guide Association certified Rock and Alpine Guide. For more information check out dawnglanc.com